Sunday, May 4, 2008

i suck at updating.

      Last weekend was spent in Cordoba and Granada with the program. Cordoba era impresionante; the mosque had been converted into a cathedral in the 12th century, so the architecture and design had an interesting mix of catholic and muslim influence. Before the tour, we were allowed time to wander around the city, so I visited the Palace of the Christian Kings. The grounds were gorgeous; calla lilies surrounded the fountains, and all of the trees and flowers were in full bloom.


      We arrived in Granada in time for dinner. Mara is studying there for the quarter, so my free time was spent with her ☺ We went to this amazing Moroccan tapateria with her friend Carolyn, another UW student in her program. Mara then took me to Chupeteria 69. Let me explain: over 120 types of shots, categorized by strength (soft, medium, hard), for 1 euro each. You’re given a 1 point card for each shot you take, and if you take a certain amount, you can trade in your cards for a prize (bandanna, fan, thong, hat, shirt, etc.). I ended up with a hat. The night ended fairly early since we had a tour of the Alhambra the next day. Plus I was the asshole that called the queen bed, all to herself. Tuve que aprovechar!

      I had been to the Alhambra before with my family, but it never ceases to amaze me. I took roughly 150 photos of the gardens alone. The scent of roses permeated the air; I kept my Ipod on and my camera strapped to my wrist throughout the tour. Perfect. Absolutely perfect.


      We had lunch at a restaurant in the Albecine (the muslim quarter in Granada), which was fantastic. Their falafel and hummus were SO good. I wandered a bit afterwards, since the Albecine was on the way to our hotel. I bought a gorgeous, blood red belly dancing belt-scarf-skirt situation and a funky little coin purse.

      Mara and I met up after a quick nap for beer, burgers and tapas with Katie (who was on a break from her program in Paris), her boyfriend Kevin, and Mara’s friend, Colin. We went to Colin’s place for a bit afterwards to hang out before the botellon. The botellon was madness, a bit like Carnaval in that you can drink in excess in public and there’s nothing the police can do about it. We witnessed a catfight which ended with the girls making up and stumbling out of the plaza. At around 3a we went to a disco and danced until 6a. Best moment: Ladytron – Destroy Everything You Touch came on and Katie, Mara and I danced harder than ever while screaming the words. We made it back to the hotel, in bed and spooning by 7ish, and woke up at 9:30 to pack and leave for Cadiz.

      THIS past weekend was spent in Mallorca and Ibiza. The Balearic Islands reminded me of the Canaries: lots of beach, lots of massive hotels, lots of bars. The major difference, as to be expected, are the megadiscos on Ibiza. 30 euro will get you into this HUGE 3 level discoteca with dancers (cut from fucking stone) on their own little stages and the dance floor on one floor, the bar on another, and a balcony-bar on the 3rd. It was unlike anything I’d ever experienced. We were in Mallorca for Wednesday night, Thursday, and Saturday night, and Ibiza for Friday. Our (Brandon, Taryn and I) time was spent on the beach, in various discos, or eating eating eating. Hawaiian pizza with extra pineapple and I arelikethis, especially if my very own fairly large pie is only 6ish euro.


      We woke up at 5:30a for the flight back to Sevilla. I’m going to sleep for a bit, but the majority of my day will be spent doing homework. I’ve got a presentation in Literature on Thursday which I have yet to start, and a fat reading packet due for History of Spain on Tuesday.

      I can’t believe I only have 3 more weekends here. I’m going to Tarifa and Morocco with Aubrie next weekend, then staying in Cadiz for the last 2. Mara will be visiting me the weekend before I leave. And then back to the States. Gah.

Friday, April 18, 2008

for those craving ear candy

      this is the latest collection of songs i can't stop listening to. get your download on!


  • portishead - glory box
  • led zeppelin - the rain song
  • tilly and the wall - lost girls
  • the beatles - this boy
  • surrounded - 21st century paradise traveller
  • ben harper - when she believes
  • prefab sprout - bonny
  • mason jennings - forgiveness
  • bob marley - burnin' and lootin'
  • savage garden - to the moon and back
  • the shins - a call to apathy
  • josh rouse - it looks like love
  • of montreal - du og meg
  • ben folds - fred jones part 2
  • counting crows - raining in baltimore

i'm lost in heaven and i'm lost to earth

      i'm terrible at updating this. but life in cadiz basically boils down to:

  • going to the beach when it's nice out, which unfortunately hasn't been the case for a couple weeks now
  • but not to fear, a 250g external with entirely too many movies and television shows always saves the day!
  • belly dancing classes
  • university classes
  • busying myself with making colorful flashcards, detailed outlines, and typed notes for said classes because homework is minimal and i'm one of those painfully organized people
  • going to my favorite teahouse which has a moroccan ambiance, amazing milkshakes which are more like smoothies, this amazing yogurt/crushed peanuts/chocolate sauce/cinnamon concoction, and a belly dancer every thursday who just so happens to be my dance class teacher
  • eating a lot of gelato
  • going out on the weekends to 2 or 3 bars, then maybe, or maybe not, ending the night at la punta
  • musical-watching evenings with my beloved aubrie
  • listening to copious amounts of music, in my room, in transit, at the beach...


      HOWEVER, last weekend i did make it to sevilla to see the fair and spend time with mara. it was wonderful :) i had missed her quite a bit. my program's going to granada next weekend so i'll get to see her there, and then she's coming to visit cadiz the weekend before i leave for the states.


      soooo next weekend is granada, the following weekend is ibiza and mallorca, the weekend after is tarifa (again. when i say i love tarifa, i really, really, really tarifa. and even that's an understatement) and morocco (!!! i've never been and i am so excited), then i have a free weekend, then mara comes to visit. and then i'm home.

      it's surreal to think that i've been here since january and will be back in seattle by june 1st, working, taking classes, living by myself, cooking for myself, doing my own laundry, speaking english all the time. i feel like i've changed a lot, in many respects. half of me feels that i'll be ready to go back to that life by the end of may, that i've grown to be more self sufficient and comfortable with myself, and that my spanish has definitely improved, but the other half is saying, "you haven't practiced your spanish nearly enough, you still haven't explored the new part, you haven't climbed the tower in the cathedral, you have yet to find restaurant paella that is as amazing as your host mother's, you haven't made enough spanish friends." i guess you very rarely accomplish everything you want to do. i'm by no means disappointed, but i'm sure as hell going to make the most of the rest of my time here. still have a month and a half :)

Thursday, April 3, 2008

been stuck in a prefab sprout kind of mood

      went to tarifa with morganna this past weekend. the weather was quite a bit nicer, but we didn't get a chance to windsurf. we chose to cook, practice belly dancing, sleep past noon on both days, and get addicted to bollywood and pushing daisies. i want to go once more before i go back to the states, but when, we'll see...


      the temperature is rising here in cadiz. the forecasts promises 80+ fahrenheit the entire weekend. i'm craving surfing but hear the waves are terrible here from april until the end of summer. joder :(

      classes have been going well. we have 2 exams this coming tuesday, so my time not dedicated to the beach this weekend will be spent making flash cards for history and linguistics.

      my dad got me hooked on prefab sprout. if you're craving a listen, i recommend "when love breaks down" or "bonny".

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

sitting around with an hour to spare

      points of interest:

  • hurray!

  • having "muy flojo" written on my already ruined literature exam

  • evan's here. pictures will obviously ensue. and hilarity, what with his knowledge (or lack thereof) of the spanish language :)

  • practicing soulja boy with brandjord

  • the fact that it's sunny and warm outside

  • and that we only have 1 class tomorrow and it will be 70 degrees

  • i'm going to gotinga (sp?) despues de la clase de historia!! toast with caramelized apples and brie, here i come

Sunday, March 23, 2008

POR FIN, chochos

      I’m on a train to Florence and have half an hour. Ergo, I write!

      It’s been a while, and quite a few trips have been taken. Taryn and I went to Tarifa February 22nd – 23rd, and my god do I need to go back. It was very rainy and windy when we were there, but we made the most of it by cooking dinner and playing rummy for 4 hours at the hostel with some interesting people. Let me just tell you that I couldn’t have had a better first hostel experience anywhere else. The Melting Pot was 20 euro a night and well worth it. The bed we shared was HUGE and very comfortable, and there was a big armoire with locks for our bags. Breakfast was included, and they had pretty solid coffee (how I rate, well, everything). It was very close to the beach, which will be nice when we go back for surfing ☺ (Tarifa is the wind surf capital of Europe). There was a dog, Malu, who was one of the cuddliest animals I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. He was waiting outside my door at 8a when I got up and latched his teeth onto my pants when I didn’t pet him for more than 5 minutes. We met a bunch of kids originally from Texas but studying in Seville, and wandered around the beach with them the next day. There’s really no way to describe Tarifa as it was when we were there. The best I can do is offer photos and have you listen to Windsor for the Derby – The Melody of a Fallen Tree at the same time. And then read Chbosky’s The Perks of Being a Wallflower and figure out what it means to feel “infinite”. It was glorious. We left a bit early because the weather took a turn for the worst, but we’re going back the 2nd weekend of April. So excited.


      The next trip was to Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands. It really reminded me of Hawaii… volcanoes, beaches, an interesting mix of touristy and untouched. Taryn and I stayed at an all-inclusive hotel, which was probably the best thing for a trip like that: $60 a night, and this included as many drinks as we want (I actually asked the bartender at 10a if there was a limit and he gave me the strangest look. Serves me right) and buffet-style breakfast, lunch and dinner. We got in at around 2a, and plates of bread and cold cuts were waiting for us in our room. We polished them off and fell asleep immediately after. The next day we woke up and decided that, since we had nothing planned, drinking was in order. 3 sangrias each with no food in our stomachs made for an interesting morning/afternoon, and we inevitably fell asleep for 5 hours, waking up in time for dinner. The next day, we had a tour of the Northern side with perhaps the funniest tour guide I’ve ever had. We were the only Americans (everyone else was British), so a fair amount of teasing ensued. We had an AMAZING lunch of potatoes, chicken, and tinto (simplicity = perfection). The ride back to the hotel was set to the tour guide’s mix CD of Britney Spears and Enrique Iglesias.


      We decided to explore the clubs that night with the intention of ending up at the bar where the bartender I had been flirting with earlier that morning was working. We start the night at 10p and make our way over to our final destination by midnight (very, very early by Spanish standards). We get a few free beers, and I wander over to the bathroom to gussy up (yeah that’s right). I trip on my way out but make nothing of it. It turns out I cut my toe bad enough to soak up my flip flop and leave a puddle of blood on the floor. Taryn tells me it’s time to go home, so I run up the white marble stairs to my room. There was a trail of bloody footsteps following me. The bartender watched me limp my way up. Goddamnit. The last day was spent on the beach soaking up as much sun as possible before taking the flight back to Spain. We had amazing Mexican food for dinner (fajitas… fajitas…) and left Tenerife on a very good note.


      We left Tenerife at 2:55a on Saturday because my sister and mother were getting into Jerez at 1:15p that afternoon. I was exhausted but so excited to see my family, and I can’t even describe how elated I was when they walked through the sliding doors (with no less than 2 suitcases a piece. For less than a week in Cadiz. These girls do serious monetary damage wherever they go). My sister had studied in Granada for a month during high school and had taken courses in Spanish since she was little, so communicating with everyone in Cadiz wasn’t a problem. My mother, on the other hand, knew about 10 words total and finally resorted to speaking in English without asking if people spoke English first (much to the chagrin of Kai and I. Ah well. Que se puede hacer). We ate at 2 wonderful tapaterias and spent a lot of time sightseeing,
shopping, and lying on the beach. I wish they could have stayed longer… I’ll see them both in 2 months :)


      The two weeks before Semana Santa (spring break) were spent in the library studying for exams. There were 4: Language, History of Spain, Literature, and Linguistics. I did well on my Language and History of Spain exams, the other two… hmm. Good thing we get to retake Linguistics, and I haven’t gotten the results for Literature. The funny thing about Comparative Literature is that I’ve never had exams, only papers, where you have plenty of room to argue your point. A test asking for paragraph comparisons of vastly different writers is new to me, but at least I know how to study for the next one. No me preocupo.


      We spent 3 nights in Rome and 3 nights in Florence. Both cities are amazing, but Florence appealed more to me. It reminded me of Cadiz in this cobble-stone, tons of plazas, one lane road kind of way, and I’m finding that I
miss Cadiz quite a bit when I’m away for more than a couple days at a time. Feels like home! In Rome, we took advantage of the DELICIOUS pastas, pizzas, calzones (which, by the way, translates to “pants” in English), bruschette, gelato, and red wine. We never had a bad meal, and found that you didn’t need to spend too much to eat very well. Our first day was spent on a tour of the Vatican museums and St. Peter’s Cathedral, which were all very interesting (although it is highly recommended
to wear comfortable walking shoes. Chucks don’t cut it). Aubrie and I body-slammed people who were taking pictures in the Sistine Chapel (for fuck’s sake, 1. The rules are there for a reason. Stop eroding the paint 2. Buy a postcard).


      The next day, we roamed (ha) the city with these boys from Minnesota who were staying at our
hostel. One of them had studied there for a semester, so he knew his way around the city, spoke a little Italian, and was full of random facts about various neighborhoods and sites. Among a myriad of things we saw were the Pantheon, Coliseum, and this MASSIVE street fair (where I bought a porcupine for my glass menagerie. Don’t judge).


      I destroyed myself that night with a bottle of wine, 7 shots of tequila, and 2 beers within a 2 and a half hour period. Don’t worry, I know that that is about the stupidest thing anyone can do. I don’t remember a solid 8 hours of my life (and was almost taken to the hospital! What hot fun that could have been), but my travel buddies have been kind enough to fill me in on the events of that night, which were thankfully limited to being completely unresponsive to, well, everything, and puking on, well, everything. I woke up in Aubrie’s bed with my feet in Sara’s face. The next morning was spent dishing out apologies and thanks to everyone who had to deal with me ( I was carried home by 3 very patient Italian boys, had my stomach pushed on by this Hungarian fellow who swore that it was the best thing to do to “make the alcohol come out of my mouth”, and was held up in the shower by the love of my life, Aubrie, and this Brazilian girl who was so frustrated by me that, after I fell out of the shower, from which I have a saucer sized bruise on my left hip, snapped, “You have to help us help you.” Let me explain my physical state: I was legitimately drooling on myself, cross-eyed, and incapable of moving on my own, speaking, and taking advice) and a solid promise to never drink more than 3 drinks per weekend night for the duration of
my study abroad program (Trust me to do it after something like that. Seriously.),

      Needless to say, the day was spent washing all of the clothes I had sullied, sleeping, and doing homework. I’m pissed that I missed a day in Rome, but upon arrival, Aubrie and I will be going to the Palatino so I can catch up a little.

      On Tuesday, we left for Florence by train. Our hostel was very different from the one in Rome: much bigger, a kitchen one could actually cook in, but the reception was in a different hostel a solid 3 blocks away, and there weren’t as many people. We met this group of guys from Barcelona who were shocked to hear about some of the norms in Cadiz (“They actually use “picha” casually?”) We made dinner 2 of the three nights we were there, and went to Za-Za’s (HIGHLY recommended. The portions aren’t that big, but are still filling) for the other. Emily and I had tours of the Accademia and Uffizi, both of which were very interesting and made me wonder why I never took a class in art history. We visited the Duomo with high hopes of climbing it, but alas, it’s closed from March 20 – 24 for Easter.


      We visited the Boboli gardens on our last day, and hilarious pictures ensued thanks to Aubrie’s mix of delusional-hyper resulting from too much sugar in her gelato. I ordered a pair of black knee-high flat boots from a leather smith close to the Boboli gardens that will be custom made (hurray!) and sent to Cadiz within 3 weeks. I am withholding the price, but will tell you that it was less than $400. I feel really good about this purchase and will continue to wear and resole them for the rest of my life. Custom made boots! From Florence!


      I’ve actually been writing this entry over the past 3 days because I haven’t had wireless in Florence, but now we’re on our way back to Rome for our last night. I’ll be able to publish this entry there. The Barcelona boys are in
Rome tonight and want to go out, and the boys from Minnesota will still be at the same hostel we stayed at. It
promises to be an interesting night.

Sunday, March 9, 2008

i promise i'll write about things that don't pertain to me drinking at a later date

      i put someone in a headlock and gave them directions on how to make coffee in a rice maker. i don't even legitimately know how to do that!

      and then when i finally got home i FELL OFF OF MY COMPUTER CHAIR AND KNEED MYSELF IN THE FACE ON THE WAY DOWN.